Demoso

Forget about weavers and blacksmiths in villages only - even the major cities are split into craftsmen's quarters, each one specializing in a different sort of manufacture, with ancient monasteries fitting nicely in between. Historical ruins, like the UNESCO-listed Bagan, Ava and Mingun near Mandalay, or the rarely visited Mrauk U, are spread through the central plains. This is also where one finds that Burmese specialty, teakwood monasteries, some still in use, some turned into tourist attractions, a few abandoned yet even more interesting to explore. Hilly areas both in the east and in the west shelter a variety of tribes. Their cultures are so far perfectly preserved and include a number of strange and highly photogenic beautification methods - long necks, giant earrings, facial tattoos. But the main Bamar culture is no less exciting - boys are ordained en masse as Buddhist novices every spring, with an opulent ceremony called Shinbyu, and nat (spirit) temples are as common throughout the country as Theravada monasteries. Both have regular festivals, especially around full moon dates. Long rivers, Irrawadi and Chindwin, provide the opportunity for an old-school cruise, reminiscent perhaps of Kipling's days - slow, uncomfortable, but with glorious views and a chance to try on the unhurried Burmese lifestyle.

Myanmar

Kayah State

Ponpet is in fact a cluster of Kayan villages south-west of Loikaw city. This the homeland of the Kayan tribe, famous for its long-necked women. Unlike in the refugee camps of Thailand, here the Kayan live their normal lives, raising cattle and growing crops. © Mark Levitin

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Ponpet village, Kayah State

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Ponpet village, Kayah State

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