Ella Butcher | Live the World
August 25, 2023
This city turns on the Spanish charm like you’ve never seen. The beating heart of Spain’s southern Andalusia region, Seville is a city bursting at the seams with rich culture, gorgeous architecture and vibrant traditions. Once you step into the labyrinth of plazas and winding roads, you will see that Seville is a place where history whispers through cobblestone streets and flamenco rhythms fill the air. The city exudes a dynamic yet slightly mysterious energy, and by day has a relaxed atmosphere while by night it becomes more lively, with the grand plazas becoming social hubs and being filled with locals and tourists alike enjoying tapas and drinks.
Historians will be fascinated by Seville’s long and complex history and fusion of cultures which is still evident today. It is important to know that during the Middle Ages Seville was under the rule of the Moors, who were North African Berbers and Arabs who had an extremely significant influence on the architecture, art and culture of the city, visible today in the layout of the streets, grand palaces and intricate archways. The spirit of Seville is exciting and vibrant, and the city perfectly preserves its identity of grand tradition, shown in the celebrations of the Semana Santa and the Feria de Abril, whilst being an international hub and one of the most prominent cities in Spain. In this 3 day itinerary you will experience every aspect of this vivacious city, from its stunning architecture to its serene parks. So, let’s get going!
Spain uses the Euro. Some more traditional shops may not take card payment so it’s definitely wise to take cash with you.
Seville has a well developed bus network running from 6am to 11:30pm, with the C5 line being perfect for taking you around town and a single ticket costing €1,30. There is also a tram running through the city centre and a metro line with 22 stops, whose system is currently being expanded to provide better connections within the city and to its suburbs.
In terms of arriving in the city, Seville has an international airport which is connected to the city via a shuttle bus which runs from the airport into the town centre every day of the year between 5:20am and 1:15am and which takes around 35 minutes.
Being located in the south of Spain as well as being inland, Seville is known for being a hot city for the majority of the year with little rainfall. During the winter, temperatures rarely drop below 10 degrees celsius and in summer temperatures tend to stay in the 30s, but it’s not unusual for it to reach 40 degrees celsius during the peak summer months. Basically, make sure to pack plenty of suncream whatever time of year you go!
The Royal Alcazar of Seville is a stunning palace and UNESCO world heritage site which showcases some of the most gorgeous Moorish architecture in Spain. Dating all the way back to the 10th century, the palace displays a mixture of Moorish, Renaissance, Mudejar, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles and is a testament to the different cultural influences that the city has undergone throughout its history. Intricate plasterwork, geometric patterns and ornate tilework exist within breathtaking courtyards, whilst its lush gardens offer a vast area of maze-like paths, huge palm trees and fragrant flowers. Cool fact - if you’re a Game of Thrones fan you may recognise the Alcazar as it was used as a filming location to depict the Water Gardens of Dorne in the show. You could easily spend hours here getting lost in the palace’s fantastical beauty and grandeur. We promise it’ll be like nothing you’ve ever seen before.
Seville’s Gothic cathedral is located in the heart of the city and was built on the site of a mosque, but was turned into a cathedral after the Christian reconquista of 1248. One of the largest cathedrals in the world, once you pass the ornate façade you will discover an impressive space filled with stained glass windows and intricate vaulting. Interestingly, the tomb of Christopher Columbus lies in Seville’s cathedral too, although there is some dispute over whether he is actually buried here, making it a great site to visit for those interested in Spain’s overseas expansion and the Age of Exploration.
The Giralda tower stands proudly right next to the cathedral, and shares a similar history as its neighbour, originally being built as the minaret of the mosque, meaning it contains a fascinating combination of Moorish and Renaissance architecture. Buy a ticket and book a slot to climb the tower for breathtaking panoramic views of Seville’s cityscape.
The Metropol Parasol, also known as Las Setas, “The Mushrooms” in English, is a quirky and futuristic structure which contrasts strongly with Seville’s otherwise traditional architecture. Completed in 2011, the distinctive landmark is made of interconnected wooden parasols that look like giant mushrooms, and if you thought that was cool, you can also climb the Setas to reach a snaking walkway that offers a beautiful panoramic view of the city. Underneath the Setas is a bustling market where you can find local vendors selling fresh produce and crafts, as well as frequently held events, performances and cultural activities. Come back at night too for a drink in the Plaza de la Encarnación and get a fun surprise as the Setas are illuminated with LED lights once the sun sets.
What would Seville be without flamenco? The Flamenco Dance Museum showcases the rich heritage and history of flamenco, an art which is deeply rooted in Andalusian culture. The combination of precise footwork, soulful melodies and the intense nature of the dance combine to create a truly memorable experience. Explore the museum’s collection of traditional costumes, instruments, photographs and artefacts and get a real sense of what the passionate art form is about. We’re sure that once you’ve visited the museum you’ll be desperate to experience the spirit of flamenco, so why not book this ticket to a Flamenco Show in an 18th century building surrounded by orange trees whilst also getting free entry to the museum? It couldn’t get more Spanish than that!
Budget: Hostel A2C
A central hostel featuring air-conditioned rooms, a terrace, shared lounge and bar.
Mid-Range: Apartamentos Core Suite Sevilla
Well-equipped apartments in the centre of Seville with free WiFi and a terrace.
Luxury: Suites San Pablo
Air-conditioned apartments with a living room and pool or city views.
Also known as the Santa Catalina District, Barrio Santa Cruz is Seville’s Jewish quarter and one of the city’s most iconic and historic neighbourhoods, which gets its name from the Santa Catalina monastery which was constructed in the area in the 14th century. This residential area has a cosy and traditional vibe thanks to its twisty laneways and whitewashed buildings adorned with ceramic tiles, but it is also home to many art galleries, craft shops and feisty flamenco performances. Swing by the picturesque Plaza de Santa Cruz and grab a cafe con leche before you continue exploring! If you want to learn more about the traditions and legends of this fascinating neighborhood, book a ticket on this Santa Cruz Old Jewish Quarter Walking Tour.
Located in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood, the Hospital de los Venerables was founded in the 17th century by Justino de Neve as a place that provides shelter and care for elderly and infirm priests. These days, whilst the Hospital de los Venerables is of course a beautiful building thanks to its stunning inner courtyard with a fountain, majestic columns and a double-tiered arcade, it also plays an important role in Seville’s cultural and artistic scene, holding a range of events and exhibitions throughout the year.
Housed in a former convent complex in the centre of Seville, the Museo de las Bellas Artes is one of Spain’s most important art museums, and is home to an expansive collection of fine arts spanning from the medieval period to the 20th century. Art geeks can get their fill of Spanish painters, with the museum housing pieces by artists such as Velázquez, Murillo, Zurbarán and Valdés Leal while architecture lovers can delve deeper into the history of the convent by exploring the cloister, chapel and various rooms.
The Palacio de las Dueñas is an impressive palace built between the 15th and 16th centuries which belongs to the House of Alba, some of Spain’s most famous aristocrats. Since 2016 its sun-drenched Mudejar patios and large gardens have been open to the public and provide a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle on the outside of the palace walls. To get an insight into the life of the Spanish aristocracy, you book a guided tour and visit most of the ground floor rooms, including the Salon de la Gitana, private sitting rooms, chapel and study, as well as the gorgeous Patio de los Limones garden. If you have an architectural eye, you will notice that the main arcaded patio has similar Mudejar features to the Casa de Pilatos (look at day 3!), which was built for the same family and also has intricate ceramic tiles, plasterwork and artesonado wooden ceilings.
Literally translated as the “Gold Tower”, the Torre de Oro is one of Seville’s most recognisable landmarks and at 36 metres high the tower is easily visible as it perches on the banks of the Canal de Alfonso XII. At the time of its construction, the tower made up part of the Moorish city wall and although its exact purpose is debated, it most likely served as a defensive tower to control shipping on the river Guadalquivir, as well as to prevent enemy ships from sailing on the river. The name “Golden” refers to the time of Spain’s prosperity when ships would bring gold from the Latin American colonies and discharge it here, as well as to the golden glow that the tower would cast when reflecting the sunlight. Climb the tower and be rewarded with amazing views over the Guadalquivir river, as well as a small maritime museum located on the top floor.
Whilst you’re by the river, hop on this Sunset Bike Tour to see and learn more about Seville’s most quintessential landmarks and enjoy a magical sunset by the Guadalquivir river.
Nestled on the western bank of the Guadalquivir river lies the friendly and vibrant neighbourhood of Triana. Cross the river on the Isabel II bridge and wander down the colourful Calle Betis before exploring the authentic quarter’s interlaced streets and hidden corners. Something great about this neighbourhood is that it isn’t as touristy as most other neighbourhoods, making it a great place to escape to for a couple of hours to get a more genuine sense of the city. Whilst you’re here be sure to take a look at the Santa Ana and La Capilla de los Marineros churches and definitely check out the Mercado de Triana, a daily market selling fresh produce and with small eateries.
Seville’s bullring is the largest and most important in Spain, being able to hold an impressive 13,000 spectators, and is home to the largest bullfighting festival in the world during the Feria de Abril celebrations. Despite the sport being increasingly controversial due to its animal rights implications, bullfighting is deeply rooted in Spanish tradition and it is hard to understate its cultural significance in Spain. The spectacle involves traditional and ornate outfits and a high level of skill and courage from the “matador”, and always draws large crowds. The bullring is also home to the Museo Taurino de la Real Maestranza, a museum that showcases the history, costumes, artwork and artefacts related to bullfighting, so definitely pay a visit if you are intrigued by the unique sport.
Budget: Noches en Triana
2-star accommodation with balconies in Triana.
Mid-Range: Zenit Sevilla
Hotel in the Triana neighbourhood with rooms decorated in an Andalucian style and a garden terrace.
Luxury: Petit Palace Santa Cruz
Modern rooms in a luxurious boutique hotel set in a 16th century mansion.
Located in the neighbourhood of Santa Cruz, the Casa de Pilatos is often hailed as the most beautiful palace in Seville after the Alcazar, and we can see why. When you enter the 16th century palace through the arches you will see 24 busts of Roman emperors and Greek gods, leading the way to a beautiful central patio with a fountain and a well. Although the palace is still partly inhabited by the 18th Duchess of Medinacelli and her family, the public is welcome to explore the luxurious marble columns and floors, classic Mudéjar tiles, the palace’s chapels and Italian style garden. It is popular belief that the palace’s design was inspired by the house of Pontius Palce in Jerusalem, and was also named after it.
Another palace that is open to visitors is the Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija, a wonderful 15th century mansion with a cute courtyard and rooms filled with a large number of Roman mosaics. The most impressive of them all is definitely the huge and excellently preserved mosaic in the main patio which is dedicated to the Greek god Pan.
One of our favourite places in Seville, the spectacular Plaza de España will absolutely blow your socks off! Built for the Ibero-American exposition of 1929, which was hosted by Seville, the construction of the square aimed to showcase Spain’s cultural and economic prowess and to strengthen its ties with Latin American countries. Seville’s most famous Plaza is made of impressive and intricately patterned stones surrounded by a row of majestic curved buildings and two tall towers at the side of the square. A small canal also runs through the Plaza, following the sleek curve of the buildings and adorned with picturesque bridges which are perfect for a photo op! You can even rent a boat and row through the canal to see the amazing square from all angles. If you look closer, you will see that the façade of the main building features a series of alcoves, each representing a different province of Spain and which feature ceramic tile murals depicting landmarks from each region. The many azulejo (ceramic tile) benches also each represent a Spanish province.
Lying adjacent to the Plaza de España is the Parque Maria Luisa, a huge park and urban oasis scattered with pavilions, serene ponds and filled with lush greenery, including palm trees, orange trees and cypress trees. The sprawling park reaches from the Plaza de España to the Guadaquilvir river and provides the perfect shady spot for a picnic, a walk through the Mediterranean trees and brightly coloured flowers or just for a quiet moment of relaxation. If you find yourself faced with a particularly hot day, the park will provide some much needed cool relief.
History buffs, don’t miss out on this one! The Archivo General de Indias, or the General Archive of the Indies, is an extraordinary repository of historical documents and archival materials relating to the Spanish colonies in the Americas. Established in 1785 by King Charles III of Spain, its purpose was to centralise and preserve the vast amount of documents generated by Spain’s colonial activities. A visit to this UNESCO world heritage site will plunge you into a wealth of information about the governance, economics, religion, exploration and culture of Spain’s former colonies as well as the complex relationship between Spain and Latin America. Whilst the archive is intended mainly for academic research, it is open to the public so is definitely worth dropping by if you want to learn more about this period of Spain’s history. If history isn’t your thing, though, you can still come and appreciate the ornate building that houses the archive, the Casa Lonja de Mercaderes, in all its Renaissance-style glory.
On the northern side of town in the trendy Alameda neighbourhood you will find the Plaza de Alameda de Hércules, a long and thin garden square which is home to funky cafes, bars, restaurants and vintage boutiques. Drop by Red House, an art gallery and café filled with graffiti-style artwork and vintage mismatched furniture, for a coffee and sweet treat or sit amongst the trees in the square and take in the beautiful scenery. In the evening the square becomes a vibrant hub of the city’s nightlife, where people come to enjoy tapas, drinks and the buzzy atmosphere. Just a few years ago Alameda was a pretty run-down part of Seville, but it has recently been revived and is now a fashionable and forward-thinking place. Keep an eye out for bright street art and murals dotted around the neighbourhood!
Budget: Onefam Catedral
Centrally located hostel with air-conditioned rooms, a shared lounge and a terrace.
Mid-Range: Pasarela
Quiet hotel overlooking the Maria Luisa Park filled with exquisite marble and typical Sevillian artwork.
Luxury: Hotel Giralda Center
4-star hotel with a seasonal outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre, terrace and Mediterranean restaurant.
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