Attractions around Kupang, West Timor

Indonesia is normally seen as a segment of South-East Asia - perhaps quite different from the continental part, but still. Well, not Timor. Located much closer to Australia than to Java, this is an obvious piece of Oceania belonging to Indonesia de jure only, and then not entirely - East Timor is nominally an independent country, practically a neglected Australian colony. And the difference between the two halves of the island is political, historical, nowadays - economic as well, but ethnically, they're more or less one and the same, and the Indonesian West with the provincial capital in Kupang is much easier to visit. Kupang itself is surprisingly well organized for such a remote place, but there's not much to see in the city itself. There is however no shortage of natural and cultural attractions within a short radius - quite enough to get acquainted with this wilder part of Indonesia before moving on to the traditional villages in Timor's tribal interior. 

Oenesu waterfall

Oenesu waterfall won't beat any records, but it's quite picturesque outside the dry season, and rather relaxing. Despite its proximity to Kupang, the area is usually empty, and whatever little infrastructure has been installed here, it appears abandoned and mostly taken over by the jungle - a couple of rotting gazebos, lichen-covered concrete walkways, and a small dilapidated bridge over the river. Like most waterfalls in Eastern Indonesia, Oenesu bubbles over limestone bedrock, which creates soft, flowing contours, and multiple steps rather than a single vertical drop. January through March is the best time to visit.

Underground lagoons

Another specialty of East Indonesia is subterranean lagoons - caves connected to the sea through channels and cracks, mostly unexplored, and hiding salt-water pools in their depths. Near Kupang, one such lagoon has gained a bit of popularity: Goa Kristal, or Crystal Cave. But in fact, there are at least three such caves (Kristal, Uilebahan, and Uihani), all of them close to each other, and there's a chance others have not yet been found. It's hard to say which one is better, and given the distance, it probably makes sense to visit all three. The blue pools framed by yellow and green (lichen again) speleothems are beautiful, although a few stalactites have been vandalized with stupid graffiti. All three are good for swimming, and the water is warmer than you'd expect underground, but colder than in the sea.

Tablolong beach

Slightly dusty, unkempt Tablolong beach, with its slowly disintegrating shelters shaped like lopo - traditional tribal dwellings of Timor - wouldn't be worth the relatively long ride from Kupang, if not for one peculiarity: a small community from the nearby Rote Island has brought and preserved the old Rotenese method of salt-making. Similarly to the Balinese, people of Rote use vessels rather than shallow earthen pools to evaporate seawater, but instead of common bamboo or wooden troughs, they set rows upon rows of giant seashells filled with slowly brewing brine under the rays of midday sun. To observe this activity, visit in the dry season (and forget about waterfalls - it's either/or, unless you stay for a few month).

Sasando factory

Another trace of Rote culture, this is a private enterprise of one master: Mr. Jeremiah Pah. Occasionally his relatives or students can be seen helping him, but mostly he's the only person producing, playing, and selling a unique Rotenese musical instrument: sasando. Imagine a tube surrounded with strings on all sides, and then by a foldable palm-leaf cover. Sasando looks a lot like an accidental offspring of the classical Rotenese hat (sort of surrealist sombrero), or vice versa. Mr. Pah makes (and wears with a pomp, and of course sells) the hats too. He speaks some English, and fluent Indonesian (not always a given in Timor), and is usually happy to run a demonstration accompanied by an impromptu performance and lots of stories. The factory is worth a visit for this reason alone - visually, in fact, it's less attractive, basically a private house. When the business is good, and the tourist demand is high enough, Mr. Pah or his students start producing miniature versions of sasando as souvenirs. It's hard to say what would be the use of such memento, but at the very least, it's truly one of a kind - there's nowhere else in the world you could get a mini-sasando.

Practicalities

Kupang is the gateway to West Timor – ferries and plains from elsewhere in Indonesia will first bring you here. All of the attractions listed above can easily be reached from the city by motorbike, public transport, or hitchhiking. Each destination requires roughly half a day round-trip. The first three lie south of the city, and can be combined; sasando factory is way off to the north. For accommodation, Kupang is again surprisingly well equipped for its remote location. There's plenty of perfectly serviceable budget options, and relatively cheap mid-range deals. My personal favorite is RedDoorz Plus At Hotel Pantai Timor, mostly for the view from its terrace (most rooms are windowless though). Food and coffee are available anywhere in town, more or less anytime, but again, for the best views, try the seaside warungs (food stalls).