Sukawati: craftsmen's village between Ubud and Denpasar

Sukawati, a rural area just a few kilometres from the shore in south Bali, is very conveniently located between Ubud and Denpasar. Public buses connecting the two tourist hotspots pass right through it, as do tour vehicles, but seldom does anyone stop here, except perhaps to shop for souvenirs. Which is regrettable, since Sukawati is the hub of Balinese arts - you name it, and some craftsman probably makes it here. The only spot that gets regularly visited by backpackers and group tourists alike is Tegenungan waterfall. Its popularity in post-Covid times has even provoked the construction of a new sight: a glass bridge over the river.

Kris makers

Of all the applicable arts in Sukawati, this is the most mystical. A properly crafted kris - Indonesian daggers - is believed to have the power to repel and even kill evil spirits, take back the wounds it caused, heal diseases, and dispel curses. M'pu, the magic blacksmiths, use special alloys, usually including meteorite iron, only work on auspicious days, fast and pray before making a new weapon. The metal dummy is repeatedly folded to produce an effect similar to Damascene steel, and each time the sledgehammer strikes freshly folded iron, sparks fly in all directions. The blacksmiths are as hospitable as most Balinese naturally are, and don't mind a foreigner wandering in. Some smithies store blank daggers: sharp, durable and beautiful, but devoid of magic, for sale as souvenirs.  

Mask carvers 

A number of workshops in the southern part of Sukawati specialize in carving topeng - wooden masks used in traditional Balinese dances. Most carvers know the dance moves well, and might be willing to demonstrate them. Either way, the process of chiseling and painting a chunk wood looks interesting - and photogenic - enough. The masks are rather sophisticated, many with moving jaw, attached with a piece of buffalo hide. The colors are striking too, as you would expect in Bali.

Other crafts

There are workshops of just about every imaginable craft in Sukawati. Photographers and culture researchers might appreciate bamboo and rattan weaving, kite making, bird cage making, and batik painting. Souvenir seekers should probably look for more portable items, like paintings or batik outfits. Celuk, a neighborhood close to Denpasar, specializes in silver jewelry. Masters of this art can be convinced to provide tuition; the same applies to many other craftsmen in Sukawati, and a few places even offer official classes.

Tegenungan Waterfall

This is one of the largest waterfalls in Bali, and quite a beautiful one. It is, however, also the most popular, and very commercialized, with tourist crowds almost obscuring the water. The best view is from the opposite side of the main river - but even then, the only way to get a shot without a few Western bodies bobbing in the water is to focus on the upper, vertical part of the falls. The glass bridge provides another perspective, but is also crowded most of the time. 

Practicalities

Sukawati can be reached by public bus from either Denpasar or Ubud. Once there, the workshops stand literally wall to wall - it's easier to just walk between them. The waterfall is a couple of km away from the bus route, and if you don't feel like walking or driving a scooter, it can be visited on a group tour. There are also plenty of accommodation options in Sukawati, should you decide to stay out of the tourist ghettos and closer to the craftsmen. One can even rent a room in the house of a local painter, or a traditional rice barn converted into a private bungalow.