Surreal landscape of Kawah Putih in West Java

Indonesia has no shortage of volcanoes - and therefore, crater lakes. Many of those have been developed as tourist attractions. But Kawah Putih, south of Bandung in West Java, is quite unique. High mineral content in crater lakes often results in weird hues, but it is uncommon for the water to be milky white, albeit with a blue tint. Sulfuric yellow sand, tendrils of vapor floating above the surface and the enclosed bowl of the crater walls create an eerie, surreal landscape. Tolkien's Mordor, perhaps, or a scene from a ghost movie? You half-expect the Headless Horseman to appear from behind the twisted, poisoned, dead bushes. But no, it's another group of Indonesian students looking for a selfie spot.

White crater

Kawah Putih - literally, "white crater" in Indonesian - is just that: a crater of Mt. Patuha, a mildly active volcano, with a lake inside. Volcanic activity keeps the water warm and highly acidic. Despite the modern tourist development, the place isn't comfortable - sulfuric gases make breathing difficult after a while. Signs warn against spending too long in the vicinity of Kawah Putih, although there's no actual danger. The toxic air scrapes at your bronchi and makes your eyes water, but it can't really harm you. Stalls and vendors near the entrance often sell masks, but those are of surgical variety, utterly useless in the circumstances, except for the placebo effect.

Attractions in the area

Aside from a couple of abandoned and mostly filled-in tunnels, a leftover from the old sulfur-mining operations, the only sight in the area is the otherworldly landscape. A bamboo and pontoon bridge is extending some 30 meters or so into the water, serving as a selfie spot (for a fee). Another bamboo contraption allows visitors to climb the crater wall for a broader view, although most of the crater rim is walkable as it is, with very few steep sections. If you wish to use it, there may or may not be someone on the spot to charge you for the privilege, or the walkway may even be closed - it seems unpredictable. A walk around the lake is definitely worth it anyway if only to get away from the local tourists and soak up the eerie ambience.

Getting there

Kawah Putih is just a couple of hours' bus ride away from Bandung, a large city in West Java. If you're lucky, you may get a direct minibus passing by the entrance; otherwise, change transport in Ciwidey. This little mountain town also has a large number of homestays for those who prefer a rural environment to a megalopolis. The entrance fee is quite steep for foreign tourists, as the two-tier pricing policy is enforced. From the ticket booth at the foot of Mt. Patuha shuttles travel to the lake and back, and those are pretty costly too. One could technically walk up, but it's a long uphill slog - the lake is located at 2430m. Assuming you opt for the shuttle, it will cost ~10$ per person to visit Kawah Putih. But the unique landscape and the surreal, otherworldly atmosphere of the crater are well worth the investment.