The ancient capital of Ayutthaya

The country that we nowadays call Thailand has evolved out of a whirlpool of warring kingdoms and pulsating empires. Its borders expanded and shrank, it fell into pieces and merged again. The longest period of unity and relative prosperity on these lands lasted for about eight centuries when the royal capital was in the city of Ayutthaya. Today Ayutthaya is a peaceful little town, its former glory and power replaced with equally great archaeological significance. The ancient temples and monasteries form the most important open-air museum in Thailand. Even if you do not care much for history, the sight of ruined stupas covering tens of square miles is simply beautiful.

The historical center

Officially known as Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Park, this is the center of the former capital city. As usual, everything except temples was built of wood and destroyed by fires, enemies, termites, humidity, and the grinding wheel of time. Nevertheless, brick and stone religious structures have survived, forming a great complex of spectacular ruins nowadays. The most famous, doubtlessly, is Wat Mahathat. Here an old Buddha’s head has been completely enveloped by the roots of an old tree, peeking from this living shelter like a shy dryad. The picture of it you can see in every second tourist brochure – and take one yourself (but do not even think of climbing on top of it for a selfie – that would be blatant sacrilege). Wat Ratchaburana nearby has a well-preserved prang (Angkor-style stupa). Wat Phra Si Sanphet, on the hand, is very typically Thai, with three elongated, thin stupas arranged in a row. There are more ruins, enough to fill half a day if you cycle around or a full day if you walk.

Outside the Historical Park

The ruins of ancient monasteries thin out once you cross the river and get out of the former city center, but they do not disappear. Wat Thammikarat, for example, is worth visiting for the lion figures supporting its base. Wat Chaiwatthanaram, technically still a part of the Historical Park but located on the other side of the river, is exceptionally well restored, with a Khmer prang. Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon in the modern part of Ayutthaya has a spectacular row of Buddha statues leading to the main stupa. While all the ancient temples remain sacred and see a number of worshipers, this monastery is among the most active. On Buddhist festivals, it hosts beautiful ceremonies with thousands of oil lamps set on every horizontal surface.

Wai Kru Muay Thai Festival

Ayutthaya also hosts the annual Wai Kru Muay Thai Festival – the main global event for the fans of this unique Thai martial art. A two-day international tournament takes place in the Historical Park, followed by a procession of elephants and guards dressed and armored the old way, like in the days of Ayutthaya Kingdom. Free training lessons are offered, magic sak yant tattoos are inked by the visiting monks, and blacksmiths from nearby villages sell freshly made swords. The final ceremony looks more like a mix of a grand championship finale and a lavish royal reception. The festival takes place on the 16th and 17th of March.

Practicalities

Ayutthaya is very close to Bangkok, making it easy to reach by train or bus - it only takes a couple of hours to cover the 200 years, or so that separate the new capital from the ancient one. One much more expensive but extremely scenic alternative is a boat cruise – tour boats run up the Chao Phraya River, stopping at a few attractions along the way. Ordinary vehicle tours are also available. Once in Ayutthaya, the best way to get around is cycling – bicycles are rented out by most guesthouses. There is no shortage of budget accommodation in the new town, the best choice being the cluster of hostels and homestays near the minivan stand for Bangkok. There are also some interesting options along the river, including boathouses and traditional wooden bungalows.